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General Discussion / Re: Fuel cap release knob broken
« Last Post by chubnut on September 21, 2023, 05:05:39 pm »The part you are looking for is CC2956862, but strangely only seems to be for sale in the states. You might have better luck.
Recent Posts
82
Exterior Trim / Wing Mirrors 2018 CX-5
« Last Post by kp220 on September 21, 2023, 07:40:46 am »Hi
I have a 2018 CX-5 Sport+, my near side Wing Mirror has suddenly started not retracting fully … I saw that someone last year posted that they’d had the same issue which was resolved by having new motors fitted under warranty, I don’t have that luxury as the car is now out of warranty, is there anything else I could do to get it working … or if not does anyone know the cost implication ?
Many thanks
I have a 2018 CX-5 Sport+, my near side Wing Mirror has suddenly started not retracting fully … I saw that someone last year posted that they’d had the same issue which was resolved by having new motors fitted under warranty, I don’t have that luxury as the car is now out of warranty, is there anything else I could do to get it working … or if not does anyone know the cost implication ?
Many thanks
83
CX-5 / SE L v 175 Sport
« Last Post by Cxhammer on September 19, 2023, 08:16:21 pm »A few thoughts having 'downsized' from Sport to SE L.
Soul Red/Stone leather, Sport, best colour combo. New one is Black,looks good but......
150 v 175 BHP. Normal driving no difference.
2wd v Awd . Odd touch of wheelspin at wet junction otherwise no noticeable difference on the tarmac
17" wheel v 19". Slightly softer more comfortable ride and quieter, less tramling.More relaxing on our rough roads
In normal driving no difference in handling.
SE L Not so many toys but Blindspot Monitor missed stuff, lane departure just annoying. Swivelling headlights good
So do I miss the sport? Not really and SE L cost 2 grand less than the equivalent Sport (if only I could have found a red one)
Soul Red/Stone leather, Sport, best colour combo. New one is Black,looks good but......
150 v 175 BHP. Normal driving no difference.
2wd v Awd . Odd touch of wheelspin at wet junction otherwise no noticeable difference on the tarmac
17" wheel v 19". Slightly softer more comfortable ride and quieter, less tramling.More relaxing on our rough roads
In normal driving no difference in handling.
SE L Not so many toys but Blindspot Monitor missed stuff, lane departure just annoying. Swivelling headlights good
So do I miss the sport? Not really and SE L cost 2 grand less than the equivalent Sport (if only I could have found a red one)
84
Engine/Transmission/Powertrain/Exhaust / Re: EGR and how it works
« Last Post by filterMan on September 04, 2023, 01:16:08 pm »Did you resolve this? It sounds like your EGR cooler bypass valve is open when it shouldn't be so in normal hot engine operation you are getting hot exhaust gasses fed back into the engine. It's controlled by the coolant temperature. If you have a scan tool, perhaps make sure your coolant temperature sensor is operating correctly? I've not looked at the wiring diagram but it could also be a wiring issue so check what voltage you have at the valve terminals when the engine is hot and when it's cold.
85
Engine/Transmission/Powertrain/Exhaust / Where is everybody???
« Last Post by SteveAWD on August 30, 2023, 11:21:17 am »I can't believe that on my previous post (just under this one) and after close to 100 views, that nobody has any info on this.
On that post is a link to how the EGRs work on our 2.2 CX5s. On the first page there's a list of sensors that control the EGRs at various temperatures. What I would like is a definition of what say an ECT sensor is and where its location is. What is a Baro sensor? That sort of thing.
Surely this forum is for more than soap and polish? I've posted this new thread as if I just add it to the other one it may not get any response.
On that post is a link to how the EGRs work on our 2.2 CX5s. On the first page there's a list of sensors that control the EGRs at various temperatures. What I would like is a definition of what say an ECT sensor is and where its location is. What is a Baro sensor? That sort of thing.
Surely this forum is for more than soap and polish? I've posted this new thread as if I just add it to the other one it may not get any response.
86
CX-5 / Autolock design problem
« Last Post by bw10030 on August 29, 2023, 09:08:00 am »Hi everyone:
Reporting an issue with the autolock function I had recently on my wifes CX-3, it also affects the CX-5:
If you have Autolock on (which seems a good idea as it you walk away with the car unlocked and the key in your pocket), the doors will lock. They should not lock if the car identifies that the key is inside or in close proximity. However . . . .
My wife unlocked and opened the rear door of the CX-3, by touching but not opening the drivers door (keyless entry) and then put some shopping on the rear seat, including her handbag (which contained the car keys). On shutting the rear door to get in to drive, all doors locked, with the keys inside! I had to come to the rescue with the spare set of keys. It could have been worse. . . . . .
Now I thought this could not happen (that the doors can lock with a key inside). Turns out it can. Apparently the signal from the key can be swamped by (for example) the signal from a mobile phone (if it close proximity). In this case the wife had her phone and the car keys in the handbag. I tried the same scenario in the CX-5 and the same thing happened - you can lock yourself out of the car if the circumsatnces are right! I believe this issue also affect other manufacturers but can't vouch for that.
So on both my cars, autolock is now disabled (it's easy to do through the menu's), point of this post is to warn other that Autolock is not infallible and you could end up locked out of your car. Pressing the lock button on the key fob isn't really such a faff compared with being locked out of your car!
Reporting an issue with the autolock function I had recently on my wifes CX-3, it also affects the CX-5:
If you have Autolock on (which seems a good idea as it you walk away with the car unlocked and the key in your pocket), the doors will lock. They should not lock if the car identifies that the key is inside or in close proximity. However . . . .
My wife unlocked and opened the rear door of the CX-3, by touching but not opening the drivers door (keyless entry) and then put some shopping on the rear seat, including her handbag (which contained the car keys). On shutting the rear door to get in to drive, all doors locked, with the keys inside! I had to come to the rescue with the spare set of keys. It could have been worse. . . . . .
Now I thought this could not happen (that the doors can lock with a key inside). Turns out it can. Apparently the signal from the key can be swamped by (for example) the signal from a mobile phone (if it close proximity). In this case the wife had her phone and the car keys in the handbag. I tried the same scenario in the CX-5 and the same thing happened - you can lock yourself out of the car if the circumsatnces are right! I believe this issue also affect other manufacturers but can't vouch for that.
So on both my cars, autolock is now disabled (it's easy to do through the menu's), point of this post is to warn other that Autolock is not infallible and you could end up locked out of your car. Pressing the lock button on the key fob isn't really such a faff compared with being locked out of your car!
87
Engine/Transmission/Powertrain/Exhaust / EGR and how it works
« Last Post by SteveAWD on August 23, 2023, 10:08:08 am »After all the problems I've had, and still having, I thought I'd have a try on here for any "expert" advice that may be lurking on here. This may be a long one!
My CX5 is a 2013 AWD auto sport-nav and we have only had it since last March. Since then it went back to the dealer for a new turbo which they paid for and for a short while it was ok. Then there's been this sort of misfire on tick-over when cold and in "D" which goes away once the engine has warmed up. Its fine when in P. No codes showing.
Eventually I booked it in with a local mechanic who did a de-carbon of the EGR, cooler and inlet manifold which the dealer paid £500 towards. He found a blanking plate in front of the EGR which he removed and gave to me when I collected the car.
Then, shortly after that I did a "sniff" test which proved that the head gasket was leaking. It wasn't very bad but was using a small amount of coolant over a week and was slowly filling the over-flow tank.
After spending £750 on a de-carbon I thought I may as well have a go myself and change the head gasket. Not an easy job but I did it. I totally re-conned the head, including all the valves/seals and had the head re-surfaced, plus a new exhaust camshaft/followers.
I still had the problem, and also have a fair bit of smoke and smell from the exhaust so I got a friendly MOT station to test the emissions and perform a compression test and the outcome from that was that the compressions were good but it would not pass an MOT. Still no codes showing.
After all this the engine has performed well but the "missing" on tick-over when cold is still there so I thought I'd experiment a bit by making up some EGR blanking plates myself to see what would happen. After fitting them the "missing" went away. So did the smoke.
Then after a bit of thought I decided to change both EGRs but that didn't cure it. Then I replaced the blanking plate to the COOLER EGR and the problem went away. So did the smoke.
Now I'm finding this a bit confusing, especially after finding an online document from Mazda on the way these EGRs work.
Have a look and see what you think. I've changed quite a few sensors so far but it would seam I still have a lot to change before I get a positive result!
https://www.mazdabg.com/ftp-uploads/Mazda/6/GJ%202.2%20D/EGR%20CONTROL%20%5BSKYACTIV-D%202.2%5D.pdf
My CX5 is a 2013 AWD auto sport-nav and we have only had it since last March. Since then it went back to the dealer for a new turbo which they paid for and for a short while it was ok. Then there's been this sort of misfire on tick-over when cold and in "D" which goes away once the engine has warmed up. Its fine when in P. No codes showing.
Eventually I booked it in with a local mechanic who did a de-carbon of the EGR, cooler and inlet manifold which the dealer paid £500 towards. He found a blanking plate in front of the EGR which he removed and gave to me when I collected the car.
Then, shortly after that I did a "sniff" test which proved that the head gasket was leaking. It wasn't very bad but was using a small amount of coolant over a week and was slowly filling the over-flow tank.
After spending £750 on a de-carbon I thought I may as well have a go myself and change the head gasket. Not an easy job but I did it. I totally re-conned the head, including all the valves/seals and had the head re-surfaced, plus a new exhaust camshaft/followers.
I still had the problem, and also have a fair bit of smoke and smell from the exhaust so I got a friendly MOT station to test the emissions and perform a compression test and the outcome from that was that the compressions were good but it would not pass an MOT. Still no codes showing.
After all this the engine has performed well but the "missing" on tick-over when cold is still there so I thought I'd experiment a bit by making up some EGR blanking plates myself to see what would happen. After fitting them the "missing" went away. So did the smoke.
Then after a bit of thought I decided to change both EGRs but that didn't cure it. Then I replaced the blanking plate to the COOLER EGR and the problem went away. So did the smoke.
Now I'm finding this a bit confusing, especially after finding an online document from Mazda on the way these EGRs work.
Have a look and see what you think. I've changed quite a few sensors so far but it would seam I still have a lot to change before I get a positive result!
https://www.mazdabg.com/ftp-uploads/Mazda/6/GJ%202.2%20D/EGR%20CONTROL%20%5BSKYACTIV-D%202.2%5D.pdf
88
Troubleshooting / Re: Coolant level
« Last Post by SteveAWD on August 23, 2023, 09:10:10 am »I've come on here this morning to have a whinge about how many views a post gets but it has no replies! Also, I have an opinion on the "expansion tank" design on our CX5s, in particular the 2,2 diesel. If anyone has some information to the contrary of what I'm about to state here, please come on and put me right.
This "level" thing, to me, just doesn't stand at all. The system has a pressure cap that in effect is a one way valve. If the pressure in the system over pressures the coolant will pass the pressure cap and end up in the "over-flow" tank. After that, the coolant that has passed to it has no way back to the system. It would just fill till it over-flows. So the level issue is that the only way is up.
This "level" thing, to me, just doesn't stand at all. The system has a pressure cap that in effect is a one way valve. If the pressure in the system over pressures the coolant will pass the pressure cap and end up in the "over-flow" tank. After that, the coolant that has passed to it has no way back to the system. It would just fill till it over-flows. So the level issue is that the only way is up.
89
General Discussion / Re: Problems with franchise dealer not complying with Mazda Service schedule.
« Last Post by Willpower on August 19, 2023, 07:42:35 am »You have failed to say in what way the dealer is not complying, yet you say you are waiting for an answer.
What was the problem ?
What was the problem ?
90
General Discussion / Problems with franchise dealer not complying with Mazda Service schedule.
« Last Post by Keith F on August 18, 2023, 03:30:15 pm »I have just had 4th year service on 2019 cx5 at Mazda franchise outlet in Solihull. Manual states brake fluid change and cabin filter change. I opted for the full service when booking with realistic prospect that these items would be included. I have emailed the dealer, no reply as yet.